This time I eat a hearty breakfast before starting on the ride back, unlike the ride up two days ago. I grab a couple of sandwiches, Ham & Turkey, Peanut Butter and Jelly to go. T-shirt for the wife and some post cards to mail. No stamps or mail drops available at the motel so I'm off to the Prudhoe Bay Post office. What's this? They don't open until 3:30 p.m.? Ok, so much for mailing post cards from Prudhoe Bay.

Need to make one stop on the way back that I rode past on the way up. The last living Spruce tree North of the Arctic Circle. It's located right about . . . what the &%#*@ happened here? I cannot believe what I am seeing. Some inconsiderate, scum of the earth, low life piece of *&%#*@ took it upon himself to take an axe or hatchet and deliberately chop an area 8-10 inches wide and two inches in deep, completely around the base of the tree. Why? Why would anybody do that! What was the point? What was the purpose other than to show everyone you could? This individual(s) picture(s) needs to be number 2 on the FBI's most wanted, next to Towel head Bin Laden. Who ever you are, I hope you have a miserable life for as long as you live! Truckers, Alyeska Oil workers, State workers, tour guide drivers and everyone else I have spoken to, who run up and down the Dalton Highway are furious that this has happened!

Made it to Coldfoot in one piece, unlike the bike. A minor problem arose. The bracket that holds my Vance & Hines Pro Pipe HS exhaust system to the engine broke in half. I made a temporary fix with a large flat washer and some stainless cable and tape. Ah yes, the old school biker solutions from way back. I know what necessities to pack on long trips. Good thing too. I'm two hundred and forty nine miles away from the nearest shop. I'll need to find a welder when I get to Fairbanks and get that taken care of pronto.
Now don't get me wrong here, I like the V&H Pro Pipe HS system. Looks clean and performs very well for me. I don't believe the V&H team ever expected their unit to take a beating on the Dalton Highway.

Temporary repairs made, a hot shower to boot and now it's time for a hot meal. At the restaurant I run into three bikers. They called themselves the Polish Bikers. Although they're from Poland, they now live in Ontario, Canada, always traveling together. Makes sense to me. We talk for a while and they are surprised that I have ridden a Harley Davidson from Fairbanks to Deadhorse on the Dalton Highway.

Next morning on the way to the restaurant I meet another individual who is riding to Deadhorse. I speak to him briefly before we part. More on him later. An hour and half later, I'm on my way. I wave at the Polish Bikers and the other rider I spoke to earlier. Only two hundred and fifty miles to Fairbanks.

Made it to Fairbanks. That temporary fix I made held up just fine. Found a real nice campground called the Tanana Campground. This is the place Mike and Don, when I arrived at Tok, Alaska last week, told me about but given the wrong name or I just forgot the name. Probably the later. Met a bloke named Gary Mitchell from England. Hence the bloke. What a guy. He took a year off from work to travel around the world on a Kawasaki, KLR. He and his wife run a small business engraving and installing headstones. His wife gave her blessing and now he's off for a year while she runs the business. What a woman!

After I finish setting up camp Gary and I began to share stories and pictures of our trip. That's when Barry came over to chat. He and his wife Suann, are staying at the tent site next door. They are from Regina, Saskatchewan and traveling on a pair of Kawasaki's KLR's. They took off for a month to travel around Alaska. See this is what riding motorcycles are all about. Good times, friendships made on the road and stories to share. By the way, I found out a few weeks later that Barry maintained a web site for a Canadian Vintage Motorcycle Group, which sadly is no longer online.

Anyway, Gary showed us pictures he had taken of various road signs along the way. He said they just don't have any signs like this in England. Gary had more pictures but he sent them home a few days earlier to his wife. He has already been to Russia, the Check Republic, Lithuania, Poland , and a few other places over there before coming to America. He had some stories about Russia that were funny and sad.

Next morning I was up early. Slept like a rock finally! Didn't know if Gary would be there when I returned so I left him some Harley souvenirs from back home.

Well I'm off to clean the four hundred and fifty plus miles of mud cakes on the bike, find a welder to repair the bracket, get the oil and filter changed at Harley and back to the internet café to catch up on e-mails and upload some pictures. That being done I'll need to head to the store and find some food and water for the next two days. Leaving for the North Pole and Chicken, Alaska in the morning. I wonder if Santa will have his picture taken with me and the Harley?

While I'm cleaning the bike I discover that the wiring harness for the rear brake and signal lights, has been ripped apart by the constant bottoming out on these rough roads. As a result it has blown the fuse feeding power to my headlight and running lights. Can't have that. In Alaska and Canada you need to have your headlight on while riding. Can't repair the harness unless the rear wheel comes off and I don't feel like taking off the rear wheel. Besides, I want to get on the road now! I'll disconnect the rear harness from the rest of the bike when I get to Chicken Alaska. Yeah, I know, I should have brake and signal lights while I'm riding. I should be rich too! I'll just use the old fashion hand signals until I get to Sturgis, South Dakota. Why Sturgis? Because I'll be there for at least five days and I plan to ride at night while I'm there. Right now I'm up here in Alaska and it's not dark at night, remember?

When I returned to the campground Gary had left. But he left me a bottle of beer as token of appreciation for the items I left him. What a guy!

Stopped at Delta Junction for gas. Ran into a biker who was riding another one of those Kawasaki, KLR's. Seems to be the bike of choice for Alaska, next to the BMW's. His female passenger didn't even get off the bike. She said she was glued to the seat. We had spoken briefly a few days earlier at Coldfoot. I didn't remember him since I have briefly spoken to many people these past few weeks. He was wearing a full faced helmet, and tinted glasses. He stated that he had heard from the three Polish bikers at Coldfoot, that I had ridden the Harley to Prudhoe Bay and asked me how the ride was. I told him it was rough but that I made it ok with a few minor problems. He took some pictures of the bike and me and commented on the load I had. I could tell by the way he was carrying these cameras, he had two, and was switching back and forth while taking shots that he must be a professional photographer. We then introduced ourselves and it turns out this is Dr. Gregory Frazier, the guy who has ridden to Alaska over twenty two times on a bike. He's written numerous books and articles for various motorcycle magazines and has just released a second edition on riding to Alaska. I had intended to read his book before I left for Alaska, but didn't get around to it. And then I run into him on the trip, twice. We exchanged cards and I was off again.

In January's 2005 edition of Rider Magazine, Dr. Frazier wrote an article on riding the Dalton Highway on a motorcycle. In the article he mentioned my comments to him on my ride up and back on the Dalton Highway.

Note:
I discovered a few months later, Greg Frazier and the female passenger on his bike in Delta Junction, Alaska were just beginning a ‘Round the World Trip’. The first motorcycle trip for Donna-Rae and the first trip for Greg ‘with a passenger’. Read about their adventures and why Donna-Rae wanted to make this trip at The Ultimate Globe Ride.

Made it to Tok an hour later, had dinner at Fast Eddies Restaurant, made a few calls and then it was onward to Chicken, Alaska.

What a shame. The forests leading to Chicken was on fire these past few weeks and the scenery is not as pretty as it should be. It will be sixty to eighty years before it all comes back. Shorter growing seasons up here. Once I arrive at Chicken the area up here was pretty nice. Some burnt areas but still looking nice.

Pulled into the original town of Chicken and rode right up to the Saloon. Three buildings all connected together. The Chicken Mercantile, The Chicken Saloon, and The Chicken Café. Met Sue, the owner and her friend Bill. Nice people. We talk for a while. When I asked them where to camp she pointed to a spot alongside her place and said there, over on the grass. When I asked how much for the spot, she said free. The price was right. How could I refuse. Later I wound up sleeping inside the dining area (Chicken RoadHouse) since no activity was going on that evening. That was nice I didn't have to unpack everything and then repack. Just the mattress and sleeping bag.

Disconnected the rear electrical harness from the main harness and installed new fuses. I now have front running lights and a headlight!

Spent some time at the Chicken Saloon talking to the bartender. She's, now let me see if I get this straight, from the Florida Keys, goes to school in Gainesville, Florida , works in Chicken in the summers, and lives and parties in Tok, Alaska on the weekends. Whew! Hope I got it right.

The saloon has a unique decor. Business cards from all over the world are stapled, nailed or tacked on every wall. The ceiling too is covered with hats from all over the world. Ah what the heck. I went and left my web card there. It's stapled to the wall of the Chicken Saloon. If you're ever in the Chicken Saloon at Chicken, Alaska, look for the card. From the front of the saloon, walk to the end of the bar, turn left and look at the bottom of the wall. Send me an e-mail if you spot it.

Did I happen to mention that Sue, the owner, is also a baker? Bright and early at 5:00 or 5:30 a.m. the next morning, I was sleeping and I think that was the time, she was there baking. The Roadhouse was connected to the Café so I was able to hear the activity. After I was up and got all my gear secured on the bike, I went to the café and had breakfast. I could not believe how many cinnamon buns and muffins were on the counter and how many more were coming out of the oven. I thought to myself that there can't possibly be that many people stopping here at the Chicken Café. Three people behind the counter were scurrying around when suddenly I heard one say, "here they come". I looked up and there were two full size tour buses entering the parking lot. Now I know why so many muffins and buns.

I found this fascinating since this bus had arrived from Tok, Alaska seventy miles away and it was only 7:30 a.m. These tourist had gotten up pretty early, got on the bus and headed for Chicken, Alaska. I later found out that after they left here, they would then go up to Eagle, Alaska 65 miles away and board a boat for a tour up the Yukon River, to Dawson City, Yukon. That sounded like fun. I would have like to do that, but I had other plans. Maybe next time. Right now it was time to gas up the bike and head for the Canadian border and onto Dawson City, Yukon. I thanked my host for her hospitality and rolled on.

Caught a little rain on the way before I stopped at Boundary, Alaska. The last town in the United States at the "Top of the World Highway" before the border. Had a cup of coffee, and stapled another web card to the wall. To spot this card you walk through the front door. Turn immediately to your left and look at the first table close to the front wall and you. The seat to the left of the table that's close to the wall, at the top left corner of the seat, on the wall is my card. Send me an
e-mail if you spot it.

Met some other bikers there who were also heading to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. Passed on some tips, along with current information and left for the border. Just before I pulled out I ran into a retired Firefighter from Connecticut, Ed, who was riding his Yamaha Royal Star Venture. We talked for a while and he too had ridden to Prudhoe Bay and back. We swapped cards before we parted. Spent less than two minutes at the Canadian border and was off again down another dirt highway.

This dirt road I'm traveling on is known as "Top of the World Highway". Fantastic scenery all around. So of course I need to stop and take pictures. As I'm clicking away, Ed, the retired Firefighter, rides up on his Yamaha. We talk for a while and then we both ride out together to Dawson City.

Ten minutes later it started to drizzle and I thought it would be like the others. Three to five minutes and it's over. Wrong! By the time I figured out this was here to stay, it was too late to put on my boots. It rained all the way to Dawson City, Yukon. The last fifteen miles on that wet dirt road with a heavy rain was not a good ride at all. I thought for sure I was going to drop the bike at least five times, but I kept it upright and rode it out. Although I left home with brand new tires, I've covered over seven thousand miles, and nine hundred plus on dirt and gravel. Even though I still have tread on the tire, it is not enough for a wet and sloppy dirt road. Fortunately though, I made it. I have traversed all of the dirt and gravel roads in Canada and Alaska, I'm through! It's all paved, or chip sealed the rest of the way back. At least that's what I'm told. Stay tuned.

We finally arrive at the Yukon River. Unlike Alaska though, there isn't a bridge here. The Canadian government felt it was cheaper to run a free ferry than to build a bridge over the Yukon. So, I rode a ferry across the river. That was unique. The boat is removed from service, I believe they said in October. Then the river freezes. I don't know exactly when that is. Now this is a wide powerfull flowing river. So you can imagine how cold it must get in order for this river to freeze. After it's frozen traffic drives back and forth over the ice to the other side.

Ed and I part. Since he's a former firefighter, he want's to stop and view the local Firefighters museum. Tonight I'm staying at a place called the "Bunkhouse". One bed and a small desk in the room. Showers and bathrooms are down the hall. All wood, two story structure, walkways, rooms, stairs, all wood planking. Just like the old west days. Reasonablely priced too. It was raining and I didn't fell like setting up a tent in the rain. Any questions?

After a nice hot shower I'm off to check out the sites. The main road into Dawson City, paralleling the Yukon River and the city is paved. The remaining streets are dirt. As I walk around town I notice the streets are full of potholes. My understanding is that the town wants to keep the image of the Gold Rush days and in order to do that the streets are dirt. They're well maintained when it's dry. When it rains... well that's another story. On the bright side though, nobody gets a speeding ticket. Some Chinese food for dinner and I'm off to the local Dance Hall and a little gambling. Back at the room at midnight and I'm done.

Next morning as I'm checking out of the bunkhouse, I run into Sue and Bill from Chicken Alaska. Seems they came over for a night on the town and stayed over. They were heading back to Chicken and I was heading South to Whitehorse. Before I left town I wanted to stop and get a picture of the Paddle Wheel Ship that cruised up and down the Yukon River before it was retired. I ran into three more bikers on vacation. Charlie, Roger and Chris. They're old biking buddies from way back and as time moved on, they had moved around the country. But they still kept in touch and got together for a vacation on their motorcycles. We swapped some tales and split up. Later on in the morning I ran into them again at the entrance to the Dempster Highway. This highway connects to the Taylor highway and runs all the way North into the Northwest Territories and ends at Inuvik. I decided to take a five mile ride down the highway for two reasons. One, to say I rode on the Dempster Highway and two, it was another highway that was calling me to make my traditional one hundred mile an hour run on a highway I have never been on before. Thirty minutes later I'm heading South on the Taylor Highway towards Whitehorse. Around lunchtime I stopped for gas and once again run into Charlie, Roger and Chris. As we were talking Ed, the retired Firefighter, rides on by heading South. I waved but he didn't see me. Well it was lunchtime and so we went next door and had a bite to eat. They were the first to leave and before you knew it, they were gone. Two hours later at a viewing area known as "Five Fingers on the Yukon", a popular stop along the Taylor highway, I run into them and Ed. Another reunion.

Thirty minutes later Ed and I are riding down the highway again. Down the road, Ed has a problem with his shift lever. The retaining bolt that holds it on has worked its way loose and fallen off. And now the shift lever is ready to fall off. He turns around and heads back to a service station we had left earlier, in the hopes that they may have what he needs. He'll catch up later. I arrive at Whitehorse three hours later and check in at a campground. Another hot spot for the night. Today was a long ride. The Taylor Highway from just outside of Dawson City and down to Whitehorse was in much better shape than the others so I was able to maintain a higher speed for a longer distance and travel further than I had the past few days. Hope Ed had luck with repairing the shift lever.

Back on the road the next morning. Gas up and head South on the Alaska Highway. I'll stop for some breakfast later. I want to cover a few more miles today if I can. I'm not in any hurry to get back but for some reason I feel this need to get to Sturgis soon.

Two hours later with breakfast a thing of the past I continue on down the road. I stop every now and then along the highway for more pictures. You have to control yourself when it comes to taking pictures in British Columbia. It seems that every turn has more to offer and if you stop each time, you'll never get out of this province.

Junction 37. I stopped here for gas a few weeks ago and now I'm back again. Only this time I'm staying on the Alaska Highway, right down to the end or beginning. A few miles down the road I ride into Watson Lake, Yukon. Also know as the home of Sign Post Forest. Wait, what's that parked over there? A bike with a large yellow, waterproof duffle bag? I know that bike. It belongs to Ed. Looks like he found a part to hold the shifter lever on. Once again we meet up.

Sign Post Forest, as the story goes, was started by an Army Soldier who was stationed in Watson Lake, building the Alaska Highway with the US Army. He was homesick so he made a sign giving the distance from Watson Lake to his hometown back in the states. From there it just grew. Today there are signs from all over the world placed on posts set up by the local visitors center for all to use. They even provide the hammer, nails and ladder to secure your sign on the post. I'd like to know how these people get these signs from cities and towns around the world off the original post without local authorities catching them in the act. Some of these signs are pretty big. The original sign post has been preserved and is inside the visitors center. I understand from the lady inside that the soldier who started it all had returned years later, sometime in the early nineties. He was just amazed at what had happened since he had placed his hometown sign up on a post over fifty years ago while stationed with the Army.

Just before Ed and I leave Watson Lake, we stop for gas. It's here that I discover the spring holding my kick stand up is missing. Don't know how or why but it's gone. So out with a bungee cord, loop it here, hook it there and I'm back on the road in minutes. It doesn't look very pretty but it works. Made it all the way to Rapid City, South Dakota and it never failed me. Cleaned up and I'm back on the road again.

A few more stops along the way for pictures before we pulled into a place know as Coal River. We stop for dinner and after reviewing the map, call it a day. You see after five p.m. there are no guarantees that businesses are open and if you need gas at some point, well you get the picture. Even though this is a well traveled highway, businesses do close early. The main reason, Power! Owner supplied generators provide power to the businesses, not the local power company. There are no power lines here. It's strictly generators. Two sizes to be exact. A large generator for the daily business producing greater power and a smaller one for just basic lighting, heating and refrigeration. No hot water or dryers after eight p.m.